Archives

Salmonella & Reptiles:

In the last six months or so there has been an upsurge of interest in the press with regard to reptile-associated zoonoses (i.e. human diseases contracted from reptiles), particularly Salmonella. Various press releases and announcements by various, ill-informed, organizations, have appeared in national papers and magazines. Several reptile events have been cancelled due to local councils being bombarded with misinformation over the potential risks of Salmonella. The following information should be of interest.

The Public Health Laboratory Service (PHLS) and the Communicable Disease Surveillance Centre (CDSC) have provided the following information for England and Wales:

1. In 1999, over 17.250 cases of human salmonellosis were reported, and of these only SEVEN cases were confirmed as being contracted from a reptile source. A similar low number of reptile-associated cases were reported the previous year.

2. In 1997 (the latest year for which the PHLS/CDSC have provided the complete figures) there were far more cases of confirmed zoonotic diseases from domestic animals and their food by-products than from reptile sources:

In addition, a scientific paper was recently presented by Dorrestein et al at the recent Conference of the European Association of Zoo and Wildlife Veterinarians in Paris (June 2000). The authors stated that the major Salmonella serotypes that cause human disease are S. enteritidis and S. typhimurium. Indeed, information provided by our own PHLS and CDSC confirmed that of the 17,250+ human cases in England and Wales in 1999, 75% were due to these two isolates alone. Dorrestein and co-workers reported S. enteritidis and S. typhimurium a total of 35 times out of a total number of 1156 Salmonella isolates.

In my own small study of Salmonella and reptiles, over 46 different Salmonellae were isolated from reptiles but S. enteritidis and S. typhimurium were never recovered. While all Salmonellae should be considered potentially zoonotic, the facts remain that S. enteritidis and S. typhimurium are rare in reptiles and reptile-associated salmonellosis is also, on published accounts, currently rare. It is also possible that where reptiles do possess S. enteritidis and S. typhimurium that such infections are most likely acquired through contact with humans or domestic animals, particularly poultry.

Salmonellosis is an intestinal disease that is contracted through the ingestion of faecal (or faecal contaminated) material. It is essential to stress the importance of basic hygiene to avoid disease from any animal. There do not, however, appear to be any inherently greater risks associated with the keeping of reptiles than other pets. To prevent problems we would recommend:

1. Simple hand-washing, using soap and water, after handling or cleaning out.
2. Keeping reptiles, their furnishings and associated equipment well away from human food preparation areas.

Those persons at particularly high risk, such as young children, the elderly and the immunocompromised should consider taking additional precautions and consider carefully the benefits versus the risks of keeping any animal.

We consider the benefits of properly keeping reptile pets far outweighs the potential risks involved. With the current information to hand, it appears that you are 2,500 times more likely to contract Salmonella from food than from reptiles.

References

Bradley, T. and Angulo, F.J. (1998). Salmonella and Reptiles: Veterinary Guidelines. Bulletin of the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians 8(2):14.

Divers, S.J. (1992). An Investigation of Salmonella in a Population of 73 Snakes (Family Boidae and Colubridae) in the United Kingdom. UFAW funded research project.

Dorrestein, G.M., Buitelaar, M.N., Kik, M., Van der Hage, M. and Van Leeuwen, W.J. (2000). Salmonella spp in reptiles and evaluation of isolates over the period 1971-1998. Proceedings of the European Association of Zoo and Wildlife Veterinarians, Paris. Pp261-281.

Stephen J. Divers B.Sc(Hons);B.Vet.Med;D.Zoo.Med(Reptilan);C.Biol;M.R.C.V.S. President of the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians.

Martin P.C. Lawton B.Vet.Med;Cert.V.Opthal;Cert.L.A.S.D.;Zoo.Med(Reptilan);C.Biol;M.I.Biol;F.R.C.V.S. President of the British Veterinary Zoological Society.

Published in Reptilian magazine, volume 6 number 5, December 2000

BEARDED DRAGONS

Before buying a Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) you should understand it's requirements. On an optimum feeding schedule a Beardie will reach full size (approx 18 inches) in 12 months. This means it will consume a lot of food. Initially 2 tubs of insects per week rising to possibly 5 tubs, plus various greens/carrot and fruit daily. Several insect feeds per day for the first year, which then drops back to several a week once the animal reaches maturity. Because of the rapid growth rate and a need for a defined "hot" end (90f+) and a "cool" end (80f+), a minimum 48x24x24 inch vivarium (for 1 Dragon) will be required, together with an ultra-violet light and a heat bulb. Bearded Dragons can be expected to live for 7 to 10 years, are generally very tame, though a relatively expensive animal to initially set up and maintain. Expect an initial cost of £300 plus £5 to £10 per week for food. It is almost impossible to correctly sex Bearded Dragons until they are approximately 8 months old, so we advise that only one is bought initially. If you end up with two mature males you will either have to split them into two vivaria, or find another home for one.

LEOPARD GECKOS

These ground dwelling geckos (Eublepharis macularis), will need a minimum cage size of 36x12x18 inches with a small (11x11 inch) heat-mat and a low-wattage light-bulb. They reach an adult size of roughly 6 inches in 12 to 18 months and can live to 15 years. They will feed exclusively on live insects and will be fed 4 to 5 times a week whilst they are growing, falling to 3 to 4 times weekly as adults. Although the juveniles are not keen on being disturbed, as adults Leopard Geckos are generally quite a docile and calm pet. Since their natural hunting and activity period is early evening, an ultra-violet light is not necessary, nor are particularly high daytime temperatures. 80f+/- in the day falling to 70f+/- at night is about right. Also necessary for their well-being is a "wet box". This can be a tupperware lunchbox with a gecko sized hole cut into one end and lined with a permanently damp medium. Vermiculite is particularly good. The gecko will use this to help rid itself of it's skin, making sure that no old bits get stuck to its toes. Expect an initial cost of about £160.

GIANT DAY GECKOS

The Giant Day Gecko (Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis) is a tree-dwelling lizard that reaches about 8 inches as an adult. A taller than average cage is needed, we recommend a minimum of 18x18x30 inches, along with an ultra-violet light, a heat bulb and a wall-mounted heat-mat. Daytime heat should range from 80f to 86f, with a night-time drop to 72f to 76f. The cage and furnishings will need to be sprayed every 1 to 2 days as this lizard prefers a high humidity. A blanket of damp moss plus a wide, shallow water bowl will help. The Day Geckos are primarily insectivores, fed daily as growing youngsters, and 3 to 4 times weekly as adults. They will also take a sweet supplement either in the form of a pre-packaged "Day Gecko Food" powder, in a small dish, or small pieces of fresh, soft fruit (e.g. banana, grape etc). They cannot be handled, though they will often become tame enough to take food from hand. The Giant Day Gecko can live in excess of 15 years and like most lizards, males must not be housed together. Females can also sometimes be aggressive towards each other. Set-up and lizard will cost around £240.

YEMEN CHAMELEON

The Yemen (or Veiled) Chameleon (Chameleo calyptratus), like the Bearded Dragon, has a fast growth rate and requires multiple daily feeds. Three insect feeds per day for the first six months should see it reach maturity in this period. Since chameleons rarely drink from standing water, the cage furnishings will need to be misted with water both morning and evening, or a drip system can be installed. A minimum vivarium size of 36" by 24" by 24" is required, with good ventilation and preferrably in a bright colour (i.e. white). Dark coloured wood cages will impair the animal's sight hunting. High output uv lighting combined with a ceramic basking heat-lamp is essential to obtain day temps to 90F, falling to 70f at night. Sexable from birth, male chameleons will make the better pet and have a longer life-expectancy, anything from 3 to 7 years. Some will become extremely tame, though others can be quite aggressive and bite freely. All chameleons stress easily, especially when young, so these are not reccomended as a pet for frequent handling, particularly where children are present. Unless looking to specifically breed, only house adult chameleons individually. They are very territorial. Total animal/set-up cost of £350+/-. Weekly running costs around £10.

WATER DRAGONSM

The Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus coccincus) becomes very tame and grows to nearly 3 feet (including tail). As adults they will require a vivarium at least 5 feet long by 3 ft high by 2 feet deep. These lizards are largely tree dwellers and will need both ultraviolet lighting and thermostatically controlled heating. Daytime temps grading from 82f to 90f with a night-time drop to mid-70's Fahrenheit. A large enough water container for them to soak in is essential, this will also increase humidity. Food consists of insects when small; adults will also accept fruit, pieces of fish and the occasional pink or fluffy mouse. Like many lizards, males are very territorial and must be housed singly. Ideally, both sexes of Water Dragon should be kept as single pets. Unless in very large cages with plenty of cover, males will continually hassle the females, causing stress. Life expectancy 10 to 15 years.Total animal/set-up cost for juveniles £350+/-. Weekly running costs around £5-10.